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-   -   DIY: Denso IK22 Spark plug on GE8 (http://www.hondafitforums.com/showthread.php?t=948)

The JKS 04-29-2010 04:17 PM

DIY: Denso IK22 Spark plug on GE8
 
I know u have to "feel it" a lot of things but it's really easy if u have a basic knowlodge about changing spark plugs. Hope this helps ;)

Disclaimer: U r ur own doing it! I'm just telling u how it can be done :D

Anyway, u will need:
1.4 Denso IK22 spark plugs (I paid $32 shipped)
2.10mm socket with 4" extension
3.Traditional 5/8" spark plug socket with 8" extension
4.Dialectic silicone packs
5.Strong back (I'm serious...)

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...4e360801b3.jpg

Here's how it looks like under the hood if u never opened it :)

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...e935c49e15.jpg

We are going to use this "little space" left side of the engine and top of the oil cap to access the spark plugs. (Trust me, it's more than enough room to access)

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...1b42ffecb2.jpg

Room behind the engine (see? enough rooms! ;))

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...a26f1c854c.jpg

This is how it looks like from the back (Again, I can even put my huge camera thru the "hole")

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...00c0105296.jpg

How it's mounted

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...79f4fbab90.jpg

1.First, disconnect the battery with ur 10mm socket

2.So here comes the blind work. Use the same 10mm socket with a 4" extension to remove the bolt that's holding the gray color spark plug coil. This is where u have to take ur time looking for the first bolt. They are away from u which means far right side of the spark plug coil. There's only 1 bolt holding each coil, and they r not really tight so it can be removed very easily.

Going in!!!

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...f00558bae1.jpg

In this pic, the gray square thing is the coil and the blue thing is the connector that we have to remove later.

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...261422bd27.jpg

Here's a pic of the bolt (it's color coded red)

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...c9659d7011.jpg

3.After removing the bolt, disconnet the blue thinggy that u saw on last pic. By doing it, u have to press from the top of the blue thing, and u will hear a "click". And then slide it away from the coil to remove it. The blue connector doesn't go anywhere since it's mounted, so don't worry about it for now.

4.Remove the spark plug coil. U kinda have to spin left and right as u pull it to make it easy to come out.

Here's how the coil looks like.

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...78e6ac78ce.jpg

5.Using a traditional 5/8" spark plug socket, remove the old plug. That 8" extension is perfect for the space we have.

Going in again!!!

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...44b8693270.jpg

Here's the NGK stock spark plug that's hiding 2 HP :P.

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...0025143ef9.jpg

6.Make sure u apply some Dialectic silicone on top of the spark plug. (Sorry I don't have a pic of them) Put the new IK22 into the spark plug hole. Ur spark plug socket should have a rubber ring inside to hold a plug in position. Use the torque recommanded by Honda. (I don't really use a torque rench on stuff like this since I know how tight it should be by hand: not recomanded lol)

7.Put the coil back. Again spin left and right while u push them into the hole. (Sound dirty ;))

8.Connect the blue connector to the coil. Make sure u hear a "click". And check if it is secure.

9.Put the bolt back in. Again use the torque recommanded by Honda.

10.Repeat step 2~9 3 times.

11.Connect the battery back and u r all set!

Thoughts: It is just time consuming and gets pretty frustrated after a while. Also, if u have a bad back like me, it WILL hurt like hell after 10 mins since u have to "hug" the engine for 30+ mins... But take ur time and try to do the hardiest one (far left one) first and u will realize that it's not that difficult to change. Please let me know if u have any question.

manxman 04-29-2010 08:15 PM

Very NICE DIY- all GE owners thank you for explaining that this is easy. When I decide to do this, I will take the extra time to remove the cowl pieces so that I can reach over the engine. That is not to say that I disagree with your method- I don't at all. But reaching over the engine will be easier on my back.

Thanks again for your very nice contribution!

claymore 04-29-2010 11:16 PM

Nice write up making this a sticky. The word you are looking for when talking about the spark plug grease thing is "Dialectic silicone" and it can be bought at auto parts stores.

Since you are trying drag racing I suggest you have a look at this and "Index" your plugs for increased efficiency.

http://www.hondafitforums.com/showthread.php?t=516

claymore 05-01-2010 12:47 AM

Jesus the weirdos are coming out in your post on the freak site. Some advice ....... they have no clue to what they are talking about in most cases so ignore those ignorant kids. The only one that is close to correct is using copper plugs IF BOOSTED if not they do nothing. And using THREE steps colder ...Ha no wonder they need to change them often unless your car is race only there is no reason EVER to go with three steps colder.

One step colder if you don't drive like an old lady is perfect in the Fit/Jazz. No reason to run non-resistor plugs either.

Iridum is for long life just because of the material used in the tip construction. Better metal and that is why they last longer and cost more.

Since I like doing maintenance I use cheapo NGK one step colder plugs and change them every 5000 KM when doing other maintenance. They are only about $3.00 each so for $12.00 I get fresh plugs every oil change.

And people worried about outside air temperatures being too low so you shouldn't use them in cold weather????????????? DUDES the outside temperatures HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH SPARKPLUG HEAT RANGE. The only thing that effects sparkplug heat range is the temperature internally in the combustion chamber made by the combustion of the fuel air mixture no way the outside temps effect that.

The reason colder heat range plugs work (to a definable point) is they allow the engine to use more spark advance than the stock heat range because the tip is colder and that makes it harder for detonation to start so the ECU can put in more advance before encountering detonation hence more power.

And gap setting. Stock is fine but best efficiency will come from opening the gap a little at a time so you have the largest gap that what ever system you are using can fire across the gap. Bigger flame better combustion of the mixture and faster burning of mixture which equals more complete burning of mixture which means more power.

Boosted may be the only time one would want the gap smaller for two reasons. One being the mixture should be denser on boosted cars so the ignition system has to work harder to fire in that environment so using a smaller gap makes it easier to jump the gap.

The other is "blow out" when the incoming charge comes into the combustion chamber with higher pressure and speed than nonboosted charge which can cause the "birthday candle effect" where this high speed air actually partially blows out the flame started by the spark jumping the gap and a closer gap stops this from happening because there is less area in the flame for the incoming air to hit and blow out. Stock or nonboosted cars never need a small gap.

manxman 05-01-2010 09:44 AM

Hee hee hee! I have been too busy to waste any time on the freak site lately. Look at all the horse crap I missed. "Pick the heat range of ur plugs by the outside air temp". GREAT. They should write for Jay Leno. No, wait, he would puke if he had to read it.

The JKS 05-01-2010 10:21 PM

Hahaha, yeah them kids at freak forum r just stupid. That's y I decided to join here (also advertising this site everyday ;p) and put more effords in here to help "actual people who care about cars". I'm really glad that that I met Manxman from Honda-tech :) And thanks for the sticky btw!!! I'm kind of person who doesn't really get scared of touching cars so I'll post as many useful stuff as I can with this new car :)

PS:I edited my original post. Sorry about my English, I know I make a lot of grammer and spelling mistakes :(

claymore 05-02-2010 12:07 AM

Hey don't worry about your spelling and grammar too much unless you are a troll nobody here makes light of others mistakes. And we have a bunch of international members so you are not alone.

manxman 05-02-2010 12:05 PM

X2! We don't have any English Professors here to grade you on grammar and spelling. We can see that you at least try to write clearly, and that is more than you see in most car forum posts.

thaduke2003 01-08-2011 06:01 AM

As a newb, I have to ask- I've read up, and almost everything I've seen says that the GE8's stock ECU will correct fuel trims to death, so that almost any mod will be compensated for. So, long story short, what's the benefit to these plugs? I've heard 2 HP, but what else? I mean, $32 for 2 HP (WHP?) that might not last 100 miles (until the ECU self-corrects)? And does it improve or hurt fuel economy?
After 5 months, I'd love to hear a follow-up.

Either way, great write-up! Cheers- Mark W.

monkeydave 04-24-2011 07:09 AM

you cant do more than the first two plugs on a uk jazz as the brake and clutch fluid bottles are next to the gap on the left hand side


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