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claymore 02-02-2011 01:09 AM

DIY adjusting valve clearences GD
10 Attachment(s)
Well here it is the DIY everybody has been asking for setting the clearance of the valves in a GD

Sorry I don't have photos of doing this in a USDM model with the different intake manifold that you can separate which makes this a much easier job.

The main difference is the removal of the intake manifold as needed on the old style GD 1.5 VTEC engine.

You USDM guys still have to remove the top half of your intake and the rest of the job is done the same way as ours you just need to look where your intake comes apart and remove and MARK everything that you disconnect or remove to allow the top part of the intake to be removed.

So here we go with the steps needed to remove the intake manifold on the older style GD. You USDM guys can skip down to the part where the valve cover is exposed after you remove the top half of your intake.

DISCLAIMER: You do this DIY at YOUR OWN RISK Honda Fit Forums take NO responsibly for any damage to the vehicle that occurs if you attempt this DIY.

WARNING: While doing this DIY


doing so will possibly cause MAJOR DAMAGE to the chain drive system for the camshaft.

MISSION: to adjust the clearance between the top of the valves and the end of the cam followers.

DIFFICULTY OF THIS DIY: this is fairly time consuming, you will need to follow instructions carefully and be comfortable using hand tools.

TOOLS NEEDED: Common hand tools to include wrenches of various sizes, sparkplug socket, pliers, screwdrivers, 1/4 inch AND 3/8 inch socket sets ( USDM MAY not need the 1/4 inch drive set), several 3/8 inch drive extensions, and a 3/4 inch or metric 19mm socket for the crank nut. Long flexible set of feeler gauges. Rags, Marking tape, and paper towels.

PARTS & SUPPLIES NEEDED: anti-seize compound, silicone sealant any color, Valve cover gasket, intake manifold "Orings", possibly new PCV valve and grommet.

Starting here with everything in place first remove the plastic engine cover and remove stock or custom airbox fittings going to TB. The stock airbox is easy to totally remove and it would be a good idea to do that so you have more working room in the enginebay.

Attachment 989

This is the PCV hose and it needs to be disconnected by using you pliers to squeeze on the clamp and slide it off.

Attachment 990

The is the hose for the part of the emissions system connected to the TB that is almost on the BACK of the manifold. Blue tape is how I mark the things I disconnect because if you forget something the blue color stands out and you should be able to see it better with the colored tape. It is long so you can write on it with a marker or pen. Write whatever you want so you will remember where it goes when you put things back together

You can use anything you want to mark the removed things, or make a drawing in your own handwriting, or even if you are a beginner take some digital photos of the connections you remove you so if you forget where something goes you can refer to the drawing or photos to get some help when putting things back together.

Attachment 991

Some of the electrical connectors need to be squeezed to be released before wiggling them off and you can tell them from the others by the bump on the tab that is right next to my thumb in this photo.

There are a few others that have an internal latch that you need to slide something like a slim screwdriver INSIDE the connector before removing. As in the photo the screwdriver is slid inside the hole in the end of the connector to pop the catch. You can tell this type but the lack of the outside bump on a latch and the opening for something to be slid into.

Attachment 992

For those of us that are lucky enough to have a cable controlled TB you need to disconnect the cable. It's easy to do but a little tricky. First look at the TB and by hand open the TB throttle and the cable gets loose where it goes around this snail. What you need to do is grab the cable and move the extra so the end of the cable lines up with this slot and wiggle the whole cable so it slides out. Then you will need to follow the cable housing until you meet the bracket on the back of the intake manifold and unscrew the two bolts holding the bracket to the intake.

In this photo I'm taking off the bracket that is mounted on the front middle of the intake manifold and it's pretty clear BUT I have removed all the water piping that used to go to the TB so on yours there will be more hoses and pipes you have to remove or disconnect at the TB.

Attachment 999

There are two nuts holding the tops edge of the manifold to the head and they are the reason that you need a 1/4 inch socket set.

Attachment 1000

You can see better in this photo that to get to these nuts there is a small "Tunnel" cut into the intake manifold BUT the size of the tunnel is SO SMALL a 3/8 inch 12mm socket WILL NOT FIT into the space where you get at the nuts. You can try your 3/8 inch socket set and see if it will fit but I tried a couple of sockets and they all wouldn't fit.

Attachment 1001

The good news is a 3/8 inch socket set will work on the three bolts that hold the bottom edge of the intake to the head.

Attachment 1002

THE BAD NEWS IS this is what happens when you screw a steel bolt into an aluminum head.................

Attachment 1003

That my friends is corrosion caused by the interaction between two unlike metals that anti-seize prevents. Note the bolt is BENT and yes those are threads of aluminum stuck fast to the bolt. The first two bolts were all pretty tough to break loose initially but moved better after some turns but this one was soooo hard to turn I figured that it would BREAK or pull threads and that is what it did.

So while you are taking a break you can pull the aluminum out of the threads with a dental pick like I did or find a new bolt. AND BE SURE TO APPLY SOME ANTI-SEIZE TO IT BEFORE YOU PUT IT BACK IN.

OK so back to work on the intake. Once the two nuts are removed and put someplace where you will know where they came from like individual small plastic bags you can write on with a marker. Or on your work bench in order of how they came out but do something so you remember where the bolts and screws go back in the correct place.

Then it's a matter of looking around one last time for anything still connected to the intake. If you are clear wiggle the intake off and out of the way so it doesn't fall off your bench or get stepped on.


Attachment 1004

Whoops still have to remove the BREATHER HOSE and take out the bolts holding the valve cover on. Easiest job yet take them all out and presto we are where we want to go.

Small segue to look how clean the inside of the valve cover was. Nice and clean it was must be those 5,000 KM oil changes.

Well when replacing the photos I found you can only do 10 attachments and the REST OF THIS THREAD WILL HAVE TO BE DONE IN SOME REPLIES SORRY

So start here but then you will have to go to the second page to continue.

macbuddy 03-09-2011 03:41 AM

...what are we doing to the Fit this Saturday?
claymore, thanks for the detailed DIY. I hope the USDM version is similar to yours, I must have read that posts half a dozen times. This Saturday, mrFroge and I are planning to adjust the valves on his '07 GD3 (with over 125K miles). Although we have both done a handful of valve adjustments on other vehicles, it is always nice to get a "heads up" on the one that you haven't done before.
As for limited space, there's got to be more working room on this than my '83 VF750F Honda think? BTW, that bike required two feeler gauges per adjustment. Each rocker pushed two valves at a time.
Anyway, if you can think of anything else that we might need to know, add it to your post before this Saturday. Hopefully we will get it right, and the "ticking" will go away. AutoX season is right around the corner!

claymore 03-09-2011 06:55 AM

From everything I can find it's the same for USDM versions but you guys get away easy because your intake is split and you just have to take it apart at the split to get access to the valve cover.

However that remaining part of the manifold MAY make things more difficult by restricting your view and access to the intake valves. Let us know how much that remaining part of the intake manifold got in the way.

I re-used the intake manifold O rings and your version has the same thing at the split and since it's so easy to access them on the USDM version I would just check them for cuts and if they look ok I would re-use them.

It sounds like you should have no problems it you have already done it on other vehicles and I can't imagine how much of a pain in the butt two valves at the same time must be. Good luck.

macbuddy 03-13-2011 12:04 AM

Mission Accomplished!
Hey claymore, I got to mrFroge's house at 10 am sharp. I couldn't wait to dive into that engine bay and get to work! Apparently, mrFroge's Fit had developed an annoying "ticking" sound. This sound was most noticeable at the higher end of the RPM range. Not a good scenario, Rich is supposed to start competing next week!

Anyway, with the help of your post, and the Honda Service Manual, the air box, intake manifold and valve cover came off easily. Well, except for one barely accessible bolt, frozen and hidden behind the intake manifold. A few shots of penetrating oil, and we were able to finally get it to break free.

Once everything was off, we began the adjustment process. It was great to have already done my homework. Rich was studying the book on the fly. I was in a good mood this morning. As mrFroge was furiously thumbing through the service manual to determine the correct socket to turn the crankshaft, I yelled out 3/4" socket, slapped one on the extension, and began turning the crank!

After rotating the crank into position, we too discovered that "feeler gauge" problem you warned about. Our progress immediately came to a halt after learning that none of our 3 feeler gauges were going to work. Rich tried bending one of the blades, but it was still too cumbersome to use. After a cup of coffee, I got an idea. I realized that I could remove the blades on one of the gauges. To keep from dropping those little blades, I stuck a nail through them, secured with duct tape. Yes, we had created a makeshift handle! We were back in business!

Rich agreed with your recommendation. We used the 0.15 mm and 0.30 mm blades. The process went well. After all valves were set, we were amazed to find that not a single one of the 16 valves initially had enough of a gap to even slip the 0.15 mm feeler gauge through! Rich was a little upset since Honda had supposedly already adjusted those valves not that long ago.

The only difference we veered from was to apply a thin coat of gasket seal to the valve cover gasket contact points. Rich didn't want to take any chances.

Once everything was buttoned up, Rich got behind the wheel and turned the key. BAM! WTF was that? Hmm, I wonder who forgot to take the ratchet off of the crankshaft? Luckily it fell off before the engine flawlessly started! After the initial shock, Rich broke into a big smile...hey, no more ticking! He proceeded to take it out for a 10 minute test drive. I knew it was all good when he came back with a big grin and a thumbs up! Yes, mission accomplished!

The onlooking neighbor was so impressed, he made an appointment to do his Civic next weekend!

claymore 03-13-2011 01:29 AM

It sure is good news to hear a member success story. Great thinking on separating the feeler gauge blades.

Funny some people use a long breaker bar handle and start the engine with the handle hitting the ground to loosen a stubborn crank bolt.

That is such a great idea on my next trip to the states I'm going to buy another feeler gauge and purposely take my old one apart and maybe even cut the two needed down to a more manageable size and take a bolt or nail and make a MacBuddy handle for them.

From the photo it looks like the intake manifold wasn't in the way too much how it go working around it?

macbuddy 03-13-2011 03:18 AM

...we had no problem...

Originally Posted by claymore (Post 7749)
From the photo it looks like the intake manifold wasn't in the way too much how it go working around it?

I am guessing that valve adjustment was such a chore with the earlier models, that the design was changed to offer more access to the valves. To answer your question, we had absolutely no problem getting to the valves.

Carbuff2 06-29-2011 11:07 AM

Just saw this DIY...PROPS to Claymore!

Here's the type of thickness gauges you need to do the valve adjustment on a Fit (and other Hondas). Less than $15 USD

claymore 06-29-2011 11:27 PM

Hey thanks for those kind words. That is what we try to do around here give everybody the best technical advice we can. And welcome to our site.

That set of feeler gauges is just the ticket and I will probably pick up a set this sept. on my trip back to the USA.

1bluefit 02-11-2012 09:06 PM

Great write up! I did my valves today. Only 2 of the intake were ok. All of the exhaust were off bad. I couldn't even get my .006 gauge in some of them. The only thing I would like to add is an old trick I learned long ago. I didn't take the plastic inner fender loose. I went through the hole in it with my extension and socket. I knew it would be tight going through the hole so I used black electrical tape and taped the socket onto the extension. That way it don't fall off when you take it off the crank bolt and make you hunt it for half a day and when you pull it back through the opening it won't fall off. Just a little heads up on an old trick.

claymore 02-11-2012 11:53 PM

Your before setting readings are similar to what everybody is finding. I'm very surprised that there aren't a bunch of burned exhaust valves around with the way they all tighten up.

I think Honda should change their recommended mileage for running the valves to something like 50,000 miles to prevent this problem and you lucky USA guys have the split intake manifold to make it much easier as you don't have to remove the intake manifold to do it.

Your using the hole in the plastic will also work just fine as long as you remember to use your tape. :p

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