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Old 06-16-2009, 11:35 PM
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Default DIY "wrapping" GD3 Jazz/Fit header

Again this shows work being done on a Jazz but it also applies to a Fit with minor differences



Well here we got again another post on what I am doing to my Jazz. Today I will try and show what is involved on putting a heat wrapping onto your Jazz header. First of all you need to jack up your Jazz and USE JACK STANDS never work under any car without using jack stands. They are very cheap and never wear out so for a small investment you will get years of use from them.

When removing the stock header you have to know you will get CUTS on your hands as there are several heat shields on the header, Cat, and power steering unit and they are stamped steel with VERY SHARP edges. The block also has many sharp edges so if you have a pair of mechanics gloves use them. The plastic splash guard needs to be removed and only 2 philips screws need to be removed and 5 or 6 of the push in black plastic clips lets it be taken completely off the car.

The first place I started was the connection of the Cat to the header. I started there as I thought with only 2 bolts it would be easy to get this out of the way WRONG !! Use a 12 mm wrench or socket to try and get them out. The first on came out without too much trouble but things got BAD with the second one. I tried everything I could think of to get this bolt out but it was solid. I tried hitting the ratchet handle with a hammer, hit the bolt with a hammer, took the first bolt out completely and turned the flange, and finally heated up the bolt with a torch but nothing that thing would not turn and was starting to bend. Some of you may ask why I did not put a pipe on the ratchet for more leverage but that is the best way to break a bolt there is. Finally I gave up and tightened the bolt until I broke it off and would remove the remaining parts of the bolt later.

Next is the heat shield attached above the header that is silver in the photo. 3 10mm wrench size bolts hold it in place 2 on top one easy one near collector of header. I got the 2 top ones by reaching up from underneath it's a hands on no see problem and some may find it easier from the top. I got it loose from the header and tried to remove it to get it out of the way but it was impossible so just get it loose and push it out of the way to get at the header bolts.

There are 2 studs with nuts and 3 bolts running along the bottom of the header and a 14mm wrench or socket will get them off and they are TIGHT had to wack the breaker bar with a hammer to get them started. Now you think you can get the header out WRONG. There is a heat shield over the power steering unit near where the header will have to be wiggled out and it had to come off on my Standard trans Jazz (not sure on CVT). There are 2 10mm wrench size bolts one is easy and one was a bitch and I ended up coming in from way behind the cross bar of the frame with a long 1/4 inch ratchet set but you better have a LONG extension. Now the header can come off? Not yet start reading the next part.




Once you have all the bolts and nuts off now you get to the fun part trying to wiggle the removed header out from under the engine and out into the open. BE PATIENT it takes it takes a LOT of wiggling and trying this way and that way to get the header out all the while trying to hold the metal silver shield removed from the header out of the way. It does come out but then you run into the sway bar link seen in the photo against the exhaust donut on the bottom of the header. It has a big nut I think a 16mm wrench size and it's not extra tight but then when you get the nut almost off the bolt part that comes out of the ball joint of the link starts to turn !! I CAREFULLY pealed back the rubber covering the bolt and grabbed it with a pair of small vicegrips but be careful not to rip the rubber seal. And remember when you put it back together you have to grab it again to tighten it. Once the sway bar link loose just swing it up and out of the way and now you can get the header out.



There it is !! Nice looking stock header. Just look at all the light spots on the pipes those are scratches from trying to wiggle that baby out. Now you may believe me that there are lots of sharp edges under there. Header was nicely built with good welds and pipe size is tiny. It is easy to see why the Jazz has good low speed torque with such small pipes and why replacement headers offer more on top end. Broken bolt still there but read next post for more on that.



This is what is left of the broken bolt. You can see I even tried to get it to move with a hammer and chisel and it wouldn't budge. A friend told me years ago that "The authorities" mandated use of so called "tell tale bolts" so that the emissions cops could tell if you had worked on the converter and that the bolts were meant to break so you had to put in a new one and the cops could easily see someone had worked on the cat. Don't know it this is the case here but that bolt was TIGHT. I finally cut off the bolt shoulder using a cutting wheel on a dremmel tool and I don't know if the heat and or vibrations did it or what but once the top was cut off the part still in the threads unscrewed with my fingers



This is what it's all about !! That is "Cool it" from Thermo Tec brand header wrap. You guys have probably seen the white asbestos type of this stuff before and it is still for sale but this gold color stuff is the newest super duper top secret stuff that they just started to sell and I just had to have some. What makes it different is that the gold color comes from small COPPER particles embedded into the cloth part. WARNING this copper stuff is like baby powder and it gets onto EVERYTHING making a right mess. It rubs off onto your hands, clothes and wherever it touches. It floats around the air where you are working and I recommend wearing a face mask to prevent breathing this stuff. I had Mrs. Claymore help me out holding onto stuff and helping pass the wrapping around the header making for a neater job and while you could do it yourself I recommend getting a mate to help you out. I got a packet of 50 plastic ties for about a buck and used them to hold everything in place while I was wrapping other spots. In the photo you can see that a lot of material was left over. I got a 50 foot roll of 1 inch wide tape that was the recommended amount for a 4 cylinder and it did the job with plenty to spare. Stay tuned for more later to answer your questions that I'm sure to come.



Ok here it is ready to be put back on. You can see the copper flakes better in this photo. The company put the copper in the cloth as their research showed it kept the heat in better with the copper flakes added. The job was finished with the silver strapping and clips kit that was an extra $8.00 us on top of the $24.95 us for the wrapping. The normal white cloth wrapping was a little cheaper at $22.00 us but I just wanted to try this new version and it was only few bucks more.
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Old 06-16-2009, 11:35 PM
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Default wrapping header part II

Ok now for the questions I'm sure everybody wants to ask, was it worth it? I am not part of the company , I do not sell it or do I have any stock in this company but I have been using their products for the past 20 years. Wrapping a set of big tube headers in V-8 big block 7 liters and more resulted in improvements of one or two tenths off 1/4 mile times. In smaller engines of 5 liters or less improvements of 1/2 a tenth or one tenth were found. The reason is simple there is more metal exposed on big block headers because they are bigger and therefore have more heat loss through that exposed area.
The result in small blocks is less because they lose less heat because the header sizes are much smaller.

This product works because of "The inverse gas law" not to get all physics teacher on everybody but this is basic sciense that goes like this any gas (including spent exhaust gasses) in motion will maintain it's speed at the same temperature but will slow down exponentially with a decrease in temperature.

What does all this mean? It means that if you let your exhaust cool off on it's way out the exhaust system it will slow down blocking the new exhaust pulses coming out of the engine resulting in less than optimum performance. Do I expect big gains from wrapping a 4 cylinder? The answer is no I expect some gains for the cheap price of this kit and some of my time and any improvement over stock is added to the other things you improve to your car.

I put this on without having a baseline for my stock performance because I have used this on many other cars and always found some improvement so I didn't feel the need to wait until my engine was broken-in to put it on.




Top view




Ok now it's back in the right place. It takes even more time and wiggleing to get back into the engine bay area because now the pipes are thicker than when it came out but it does go back in but you must be paitent and try several different angles to let it slip back in. If you look up towards the hood you can see I have left off the silver heat shield that came stock on the header, it was very heavy weighing about 5 pounds (2 kilos?) and it is not needed now as the wrapping blocks most of the heat coming off the header and every little bit of weight removed results in free performance improvements.

The whole job starting from jacking up the car took 5 hrs but about an hour of that was lost to getting out the broken bolt, and the last 2 hours I was working by flashlight because I dropped my allegedly break proof "Drop light" and didn't have the right size bulb at hand. The first few miles there was a slight smell coming off the wrapping but it was completely gone in about 10 miles of travel.


Update: I did this about 3 years ago and I have had NO PROBLEMS of any kind and the sdtock header and wrap still are as good as new.
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Old 10-23-2009, 02:35 AM
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Default Retaining exhaust heat is an advantage?

Quote:
Originally Posted by claymore View Post
This product works because of "The inverse gas law" not to get all physics teacher on everybody but this is basic sciense that goes like this any gas (including spent exhaust gasses) in motion will maintain it's speed at the same temperature but will slow down exponentially with a decrease in temperature.
Hey John,
Just curious, in reference to "The inverse gas law," if retaining exhaust heat is an advantage, would there be any benefit to wrapping the rest of the exhaust system, i.e. header-back? If so, do you foresee any hazards/problems in doing so?
-macbuddy-
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Old 11-14-2009, 06:00 PM
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This could be done on aftermarket headers right? I would also like to know if the rest of the exhaust would benefit from the wrap like macbuddy says
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:22 PM
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Yes any header will benefit. Just be sure to follow the directions from the box about spacing the overlap. It wouldn't hurt to wrap the rest but I wouldn't do the converter it gets way hot already. As far as the rest of the system pertaining to the inverse gas law the exhaust quiets noise from combustion by letting the gas expand, it also makes power as the hotter it is the faster it moves out of the way of then next batch of gases released.

BUT the further it moves from the combustion chamber it expands in the whole system and I would hazard a guess that by the time it gets to the resonator it has expanded as much as it's going to and may even be starting to contract so any benefit of keeping it hot to encourage expansion would be negligible.
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Old 12-06-2009, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finalout99 View Post
This could be done on aftermarket headers right? I would also like to know if the rest of the exhaust would benefit from the wrap like macbuddy says
You will benefit from wrapping more so with the larger diameter after market headers because the increase in volume and heat dissipation from the additional surface area will create a situation where flow actually reverses allowing exhaust gasses to be pushed back into the combustion chamber as the intake valve begins to open before the exhaust valve closes at the end of the exhaust stroke....The stock size header is pretty much on the money size wise for an engine that isn't boosted because smaller diameter tubing increases velocity and the scavenging effect will help to draw air into the combustion chamber before the intake stroke actually begins....A muffler shop can put together a decent sounding axle back pipe that will give you a little better mid and top end power, better fuel mileage
and not hurt the lower end power as badly as an after market header..... I have had a lot of experience race tuning motorcycles and learned many years ago that even with high compression pistons and radical cams header pipes shouldn't be any larger that the exhaust ports in the cylinder head.

Last edited by VillageIdiot; 12-06-2009 at 07:32 PM. Reason: for clarity
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Old 12-06-2009, 09:17 PM
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Reversion or the reversal of spent exhaust gases can be found in engines with a large overlap in camshaft timing. If the exhaust valve is still open when the intake valve opens a pressure differential in the combustion chamber is created and this may cause some of the spent gases to stop flowing outward and try to reverse course back into the combustion chamber.

In the case of a stock Jazz/Fit with the stock cam this is not going to happen as there is little or no overlap in the cam profile resulting in insufficient time for reversion to occur.

Actually the stock header on the Jazz/Fit and most modern stock exhaust manifolds have a simple anti-reversion feature built into them from the factory.

If you compare them you will see that the opening in the header is larger than the opening in the headport leading to the exhaust system (in stock system with normal sized ports).

When reversion occurs it happens to the outside of the air column closest to the inside wall of your exhaust system header first. The layer of air that tries to move back into the exhaust port is very thin at first close to the wall of the system so it flows backward very close to ID of the header and when it gets to the head exhaust port the header opening is larger than the opening in the port so the reversing air flow runs into the outside of the head port because it is smaller than the header opening and this will usually take care of any reversion problem in a stock exhaust system.

Reversion usually isn't a problem unless one starts porting their system and enlarges the exhaust port to the same size as the inside diameter of the header then it may become a problem if the size of the header pipe isn't also increased to keep the header flange larger than the port.

It's a subject that has been investigated by the V-8 crowd and years ago you could buy special anti-reversion headers that had a short length of pipe INSIDE the header right at the flange with and open end facing into the exhaust system so the reversing flow would come up the exhaust pipe and go into this short section of pipe and get caught in a dead end. There were some minor gains on cars using wild overlap cams but I haven't seen them on sale in quite a few years so it must not have had any big results.

Last edited by claymore; 12-07-2009 at 02:01 AM.
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Old 12-07-2010, 06:55 PM
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Been reading lots of old threads on this section. Thanks. But I have one question if you all don't mind.

Quote:
The plastic splash guard needs to be removed and only 2 philips screws need to be removed and 5 or 6 of the push in black plastic clips lets it be taken completely off the car.
Are referred to as Splash Shields? Or are they different parts?

Thanks.
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Last edited by Fit2bMe; 03-05-2013 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 12-07-2010, 07:49 PM
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The part we were talking about is the big hunk of plastic that is under the radiator not splash guards that are on the sides of the car to prevent water from the wheels splashing on the side of the car.
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Old 12-09-2010, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
The part we were talking about is the big hunk of plastic that is under the radiator not splash guards that are on the sides of the car to prevent water from the wheels splashing on the side of the car.
I see. Thank you.
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