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Old 07-17-2009, 03:26 AM
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Default DIY Jazz/Fit REAR disc brake pad replacement

Ok sorry for you USDM guys but this is for members that have factory rear disc brakes.

The legal stuff first: Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Honda Fit forums take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

Mission: To replace the brake pads on vehicles with rear disc brakes.

(For front pad replacement see:http://www.hondafitforums.com/showthread.php?t=560)

Tools needed: 12mm wrench, large pliers or screwdriver, brake pad lube.

Here is where we start, wheel off on jackstands. Here is the spot we are interested in. Just like the fronts there are two bolts holding the caliper to the mounting bracket. Unlike the fronts you have to take the caliper all the way off you can't swing it up and out of the way removing only one bolt you have to take both bolts all the way out.



The manual says to take the emergency brake cable bracket screw out but I have found there is just enough play in the cable that the caliper can be taken off and moved upward out of the way of the pads without removing that screw.



Just like the fronts once the caliper is out of the way you can wiggle the old pads out of the slots they are in and lay them out on the floor just like they came out so you know which way the new one go back in.

WARNING: Unlike the fronts the rears are made for one side only so make sure you have the correct side. You can tell by where the "low pad warning post is located.



As with the fronts the anti-rattle clips need to be clipped onto the back of the pads.





Now the difference between the fronts and rears. Note on the rears the piston has a big cross on it. Note how one part of the cross is pointing toward the right pointing at the clip that hold the pads in place and the cross is centered in the caliper. This placement of the cross will come into play later.

Also note that the piston is out of the caliper a little way so it will press against the older part worn down pads.



Just like with the fronts we need to move the piston back into the caliper so the new pads will fit.

WARNING: YOU CAN'T FORCE THE PISTON STRAIGHT BACK IN. It has a "screw mechanism" and needs TO BE ROTATED CLOCKWISE TO GET THE PISTON BACK INTO THE CALIPER

I first used my trusty old toothbrush to clean off the rubber boot and found that a Philips screwdriver shank fit cross-ways into the cut out section of the "Cross" and could be used to turn the piston. Or you can CAREFULLY use a large set of pliers being very careful not to cut the rubber boots to turn the cross clockwise back into the caliper. There is a tool you can buy at parts places that is made just for turning that cross so it might be a good thing to buy.

Which ever method you use to turn the piston it needs to be almost all the way back in. This is fine and fit over the new pads with no problems.



Now you just make sure that the open end of the cross is pointing at the clip that holds the pads in place and is centered in the caliper because this post in the center of this pad on the back fits into that cross once it's back in the proper position and it won't fit if the cross is out of center.



WARNING: The same as the front you need to keep an eye on the master cylinder after you screw the piston back in as it COULD OVERFLOW PAINT EATING BRAKE FLUID all over your engine compartment.

Ok the hard work is done just lube up the very ends of the pads where they slip into the bracket and a dab on the back. I also put a small dab on that post that goes into the cross.(yea I know but I forgot to get a shot of the lube on the rear ones with the post)



Just like the front use the supplied lube or anti-seize BEING VERY CAREFUL NOT TO GET ANY ON THE BRAKING PART OF THE PADS.



Now just put the new pads into the clips making sure the warning post is in the correct position. Then wiggle the caliper over the new pads MAKING SURE THE POST ON THE BACK OF THE PAD SLIPS INTO THE CROSS ON THE PISTON. (it should be no problem if the cross was lined up like I said).

If the post is in the wrong position the caliper won't slide in so if you are having a problem slide the caliper back off and check the position of the cross.

Line up the caliper and put both bolts back in. You may have to push around or in a bit on the nut thing with the rubber boot to get things lined up.
Tighten the bolts to 17 lbf.ft (which is weird because the fronts are 16 and it's the exact same bolt) and check and top off the master cylinder and we are done.
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