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Old 03-25-2014, 11:52 PM
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claymore claymore is online now
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Default Replacing your Fit battery trick

If you have ever disconnected your battery you know it's a pain in the butt to put the radio code in, reset your radio stations, reset the front rear left right bass treble radio settings and reset the up down auto switch for the drivers window.

I'm going to let you in on a little secret you don't have to do all that if you replace your battery MY WAY.

For years I have been saying that once the engine is running your battery just sits there doing NOTHING and the naysayers jump in saying that is impossible blah blah etc.

Today here is the proof that that statement is true. My second battery has been giving me the standard hard start when warm thing again as it is about 2 1/2 years old and has only just a tad under 12v with the engine not running.

So I got a new battery a Bosch sealed unit the same size as the Jazz battery but about 1/2 inch taller. I have never had a sealed unit but the place where I bought the last wet battery doesn't even stock them anymore.

The old wet one was right at $50.00 two years plus ago and the new sealed one was only $58.00 so it sounded like a good deal and I got it.

Got it home and here is the trick to not loosing all your settings. LEAVE THE CAR RUNNING WHILE CHANGING THE BATTERY.

Yep that is what I said just pop the hood with the engine RUNNING and remove and replace the battery.

Do the ground cable first then the positive and pull the old one out and then reverse the process and new battery WITH ALL YOUR SETTINGS INTACT.

So what now naysayers??

One other thing for all the freaks that have installed those super secret, super duper, high tech mods, extra long ground wires installed to the battery cable really thing they are doing ANYTHING (when the engine is running) beyond making you spend you hard earned dollars think again.

It you insist on buying them install them to the body or best yet to the engine block or alternator brackets where they will at least make a good ground LOL.
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Last edited by claymore; 03-26-2014 at 12:31 AM.
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:39 AM
garfy2008 garfy2008 is offline
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You're one of the "lucky" ones who didn't fry any sensitive electronics on board your vehicle. The battery, despite your opinion that it "does nothing" once the engine is running is totally untrue. The battery provides a constant load on the charging system and when you disconnect the battery, the load immediately disappears. If you had a labscope connected to the electrical system, you would see a sharp spike of voltage as it jumps up high due to the sudden open circuit; of course the regulator would respond by dropping the voltage down by reducing the alternator rotor current, however, if you're unfortunate, that voltage spike could do irreversible damage to solid state components as most transistors, etc. can handle high current, but not high voltage. The best way to replace a vehicle battery (anything from '96 and later) is to get a cheap cigar lighter adapter that has an OBDII connector on it and plug it into your jumper pack (most of us have jumper packs with a 12V accessory socket on it). That will maintain the memory not only of your PCM so you don't lose the learned parameters, but also any other memory-backed system like your radio/stereo and the like. With the number of computers on board today's vehicles, it's a very bad gamble to take a chance of disconnecting your battery with the engine running (in some cases, it could damage the rectifiers of the alternator, though it was more common in the early days of alternators).
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Old 06-17-2016, 07:55 AM
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Like I posted it worked just fine.
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Old 06-17-2016, 03:31 PM
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Claymore, I thought you were going to suggest using something like this:

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...FYaTfgodXMsBjw

I think I'd be a little nervous about changing batteries with the motor running. It is a good trick to know if the radio code was not known though.
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Old 06-17-2016, 05:26 PM
garfy2008 garfy2008 is offline
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Macbuddy, that is the "old school" type of memory saver that used a 9V rectangular battery normally used for transistor radios. The reason those don't work on most modern cars is twofold: 1) the number of computers/modules onboard most cars today draws well in excess the current that the 9V battery can provide, and 2) most cars don't have the "lighter socket" powered up without the ignition key in the ACCessory position. The best memory saver to use would be one that uses the OBDII connector and a jumper pack. As a master ASE tech w/L1 of 43+ years, I can tell you I've seen my share of "smoked" alternators & PCMs caused by disconnecting the battery while the engine is running and the alternator producing output. It's not a problem IF the alternator is dead as the only result is the engine stalling out. That's why I say Claymore was very lucky indeed. Frankly, if replacing a battery the "Claymore way" is safe, why don't ALL auto service facilities do it that way? 'Nuff said...
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