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Old 02-27-2012, 08:13 PM
1bluefit 1bluefit is offline
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Just wanted to do a little update. Since the valve adjustment we have ran through 3 tanks of fuel. 1 tank was 34.4 one 34.6 and one 35.1. I have new iridium plugs to install this weekend and I hope that will get a little more mileage out of it. I am still not going to complain. We live in East Tn. and there are a lot of hills here so that kind of mileage in 50/50 mixed driving seems very good to me. Especially with an automatic!
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:16 PM
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That's not bad mileage. It's in the upper range for most of our members.
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Old 08-25-2012, 08:14 PM
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EXWRX EXWRX is offline
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I finally did mine at 80k miles. I left it too long because I noticed it pulling significantly harder from low RPM's afterwards. I went to the local hardware store to get some box wrenches and a 19 mm socket. (BTW, our lug nuts are 19 mm) My wife's car decided not to start after I got back out of the hardware store, so I ended up walking home, finishing the Fit, then jumping her car and replacing the battery. It was a more car related day than I had plannned, for sure.
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Old 08-25-2012, 08:34 PM
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Well that will surely mess up your day. Yep when the clearances close or open it effects were in the powerband you get better power.
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Old 11-22-2012, 02:31 PM
Oahu Oahu is offline
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I have used this as a goto to adjust my valves about a couple of months ago.
And lately I had very suggest performance and acceleration after returning from a short trip about 400+ miles round trip.

The valves was louder then normal, so I decided to take a look at my valves again, and found that the fourth cylinder exhaust valves nuts were off. I looked around and found them both. The set screws were not stripped so I am thinking they came off because they were not tighten down good enough.

So I decided to replaced both the nuts and set screws from Honda, and checked and readjusted all valves. I then rechecked them twice and they were right on.

Now the Fit is running smooth again!

Anyway, just wanted to pass on my mishap for a reminder for others to double check your work.

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Old 11-22-2012, 10:06 PM
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claymore claymore is offline
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Good reminder. This is fairly easy to do because there are so many valves and it's easy to forget some.

Glad it worked out for you.
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Old 07-24-2017, 04:50 PM
radioarno radioarno is offline
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Claymore, is it possible to get those pics for this DIY back up? I'm going to do my first valve job this weekend, and had this thread bookmarked, but the pics are no longer visible. Looks like photobucket changed their rules. Any way you could get them up just till my valves are done!? thanks.
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Old 07-25-2017, 01:21 PM
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Yep That was the first one on my list to update. Check back in maybe 12 hours I DO have them all saved but it is now bedtime and I will get to them in the AM.
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Old 07-26-2017, 03:40 AM
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This upper set of flexible feeler gauges are the type you need that short fat ones on the bottom WILL NOT WORK.

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A couple more steps and we will be ready to go. Now it's time to take out your sparking units (coil packs) and disconnect them to remove them in order and put them out of the way.

Next remove the spark plugs and keep them in order so you can examine them and see if there is a problem with any of the cylinders.

BLOCK THE OPEN HOLES WITH SOMETHING SO NOTHING CAN FALL INTO THE HEAD. I used some paper towels and they worked fine.

We take the plugs out so the engine will be easier to turn over by hand and so you can feel and hear when the number one piston gets to TDC.

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So now we move on to the meat & taters of this whole DIY adjusting how much space there is between the cam follower tip and the top of the valve.

Sorry I don't real photos of the valve timing marks but I got so engrossed in what I was doing I Forgot..........

So I got these from the manual and the real things look just like these photos.

First you have to find some way to turn the engine by hand and this almost bit my behind.

First now is the time to jack up the right (sitting in the car) front and remove the tire so you can get access to the crank bolt.

I popped the pop in buttons holding the under engine cover and tied it back out of the way with a length of rope. There is a cut out in the panel you can go through but if you do you will have to keep popping up and down like a bunny rabbit checking his hole to make sure you can see if the socket is still on the bolt. My way takes one minute to do and you have an open area to see things.

PHOTO MISSING. But it just showed the access star from the wheelwell into the engine bay so you can put and extension on the large crank bolt head to turn the engine

I THOUGHT I HAD EVERYTHING TO DO THIS BUT I WAS WRONG. My metric socket set goes up to 18mm and I had bought for other projects 21,22,23,and 24 mm sockets but when I went looking for a socket to turn the crank bolt 18mm was too small and 21 was too big.

So there I was thinking great just blanking great now I will have to shower and change my clothes and get a taxi to go buy a 19 and 20 mm socket somewhere.

Then I took another look and after using American sized wrenches all my life I thought "that sure looks like a 3/4 INCH bolt head." Thank the lord I had brought all my American sized sockets and wrenches here from the states so I could work on the Harley motorcycles of my buddies. I dug through my "good stuff" pile and found the American tools box and grabbed a 3/4 inch socket and for once I had some good luck and it fit perfectly.

So if you don't have the proper 19mm socket an American inch style 3/4 socket turns of to be 19.5 mm and will work just fine.

Once more for safety now that we are getting ready to turn the engine.........


doing so will possibly cause MAJOR DAMAGE to the chain drive system for the camshaft.

A reminder of the temperatures involved. The manual says to do this cold and I'm pretty sure if you have the model that you have to remove the whole intake the engine will be stone cold as it took me an hour to get it off to where I could start. If you have the USDM style two piece manifold I would make sure to start this with an engine that has been off for at least an hour.

If you look up the specs for clearancing valves on some old cars you can see THREE different sets of specs, cold, hot and RUNNING. You haven't lived until you try it with the engine running trying to hold onto the wrench, screwdriver and feeler gauge with two hands while getting hot oil from the rocker arms splashed all over your face and upper body it's enough to make a sane person rue the day they decided to become a mechanic.

IT'S TIME................ now you have to position yourself leaning into the engine bay so you can see the end of the camshaft with the gear so you can see the timing marks AND keep an eye on the socket on the crank bolt.

OR have a helper get ready to turn the crank bolt SLOWLY while you watch the marks.

We are going to bring the engine to TDC (top dead center) which simply means turning the crank bolt slowly until the piston on number one cylinder (the one closest to the cam gear end of the engine and the rest go in order 1,2,3,4) comes to the top of it's travel with all valves CLOSED.

As you or your helper turn the crank bolt if it's quiet in your work space you can hear the engine push air out of the number one spark plug hole when it's getting close or you can put you finger into the spark plug hole and feel the air rush out.

Keep watching the cam gear until the UP marking appears.

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Then slowly continue to turn the crank bolt until the two side marks are lined up with the top edge of the head looking from the end. If the up is right on top the lines will be lined up.

If you happen to go past the mark just turn the engine AGAIN until it is correct remember the big warning never try to turn the engine backwards or you may get catastrophic damage to the timing chain system.

Now we are cooking with gas and can get on with it as the rest of the cylinders marks come up easy after getting number one in this position.

This is where you check the clearance between the tip of the cam follower and the top of the valve.

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Note how little room there is to get the gauge into the right spot. That is why you need to use flexible feeler gauges.

But you also need to know how much clearance Honda specifies for your car.

For these older versions these are the specs from the manual.

Photo MISSING you will have to look up the spec for your vehicle

Note there is some variation how do you choose which one is best? We know from everybody reporting that USUALLY on the Fit/Jazz the exhaust clearance gets LESS and the intake MORE from wear.

So I used the largest setting for the exhaust so there will be a longer time before the clearance gets close to ZERO as some people have found. so on my car I used 0.30. Look on the blades and they should be marked somewhere and find the one marked 30 mm or 0.012 inch.

For the intakes with wear the clearance gets LARGER so I started with the least amount of clearance and went with 0.15 mm or 0.006 inch.

Those are the specs for the older style engine anybody with the new style USDM engine or a GE should check the repair manual FOR THEIR VEHICLE.


I'm going to teach you an old mechanics trick that I learned WWWAAAYYYY back in time in the early 60's when "Running the valves" (adjusting) was part of every tuneup so us old timers got a LOT of practice. At least we didn't have to remove the &^@##$^%&&* intake manifold to do it.

First you can check by trying to move the tip up and down by hand to see if they are loose or not then you take the correct size feeler gauge and try and put it in between the tip of the follower and valve stem tip. It may take you some wiggling to get the gauge in the right spot the first few times until you get used to it.

And remember the intakes TWO of them are right in the front of the head and TWO exhausts are the ones in the back of the head. Yep the two pairs are right next to each other so remember for each cylinder you will be adjusting 4 valves.

For future reference to see how your valves are reacting to wear keep trying other sized feelers until you get one that fits. USUALLY it will be smaller sized on the exhaust and larger on the intakes than normal specs.

Now the hard part ....... how to explain to somebody that has never done it what is too tight and what is too loose on the feeler gauge............

Well we can skip that because I'm going to let you in on another secret tip that is the result of running the valves hot, cold and RUNNING engine on hundreds maybe even 500 engines of all types and sizes.

What you do is loosen up the lock nut and unscrew the adjustment screw until you can insert the proper sized feeler gauge between the top of the valve and tip of the cam follower. Then carefully and slowly, because the adjustment screw opens and closes the clearance with tiny amounts of turning the adjustment screw, tighten the screw until it is JUST tight enough to hold onto the feeler gauge I mean not tight enough so that you can't pull it out with even the help of a block and tackle but tight enough that you can't pull it out with a gentle tug. Then note the position of the slot in the top of the adjustment screw like on the face of a clock like 3 o'clock or 12 midnight. Carefully remove the screw driver tip from the slot without losing the correct position.

Then carefully put a BOX WRENCH on the lock nut without disturbing the adjustment screw. Get in this position with the wrench and screwdriver and gently hold the screw from turning out of the correct position.

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Now if you think about what you are doing when you tighten the locknut the nut is pulling UP on the adjustment screw so even though you started with the screw too tight and just holding onto the feeler gauge.

The screw moves upward when you tighten the nut and when it is tightened correctly the clearance opens up from being too tight and releases the feeler gauge and you end up with perfect clearance.

OK how to describe the perfect clearance... it's like if you took a sheet of copier paper between two of your fingers, palm to the side, then pinching it just hard enough so it doesn't slip out of your fingers.

The feeler gauge should go into the slot by wiggling it around a bit to line it up and it should take a tiny bit of drag to pull it back out using just two of your fingertips not a closed hand.

If it's too tight when you finish completely tightening the locknut loosen it up and very slightly loosen the adjustment screw a few degrees only and try again until it's right.

Personally I don't use a torque wench on the locknuts but if you are so inclined here are the specs. Most USA torque wrenches would use the 10 foot pound setting.

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I just use a regular 10mm box wrench and get them good and tight NOT THAT tight if you are using something with a longer length.

OK now that than one intake is done do the other intake the same way. Then move onto the TWO exhausts and do the same there.

Once all four are done I would check them one more time and make sure you have tightened all the locknuts it time to move on.

The next set of valves to do is on cylinder number three. As in the beginning you turn the crankbolt until the number three comes up to the top. It's not very far from the TDC marks to turn the crankbolt SLOWLY.

Note the is only ONE timing mark to align with the front side of the head.

Attachment 1011

Do them all and move onto cylinder number 4. Just turn the crankbolt slowly again as it's close to number three's marks and again just one mark to line up.

PHOTO MISSING but it just shows the same as the last one BUT WITH A 4

Finally onto cylinder number 2 last but not least and do all them. Again just align the mark on the front side of the engine and ignore the marks starting to show as they are from number one coming around again.

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And DONE............ well not quite we have to put it back together again.

Take the valve cover and clean off any debris and pull out the rubber gasket and clean the groove on the bottom side of the cover with a "Q tip" or something else that will fit into the slot. The tab on the gasket goes toward the engine not into the slot.

Attachment 1019

Put a dab of silicone sealer onto the surface of the head where the timing chain cover meets it. Not a giant blob or it will get squished out the sides.

Not like the photo the silicone goes along the "separation CRACK" that looks like two "Clean spots" if you follow the mark left from the old gasket.

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Last edited by claymore; 07-26-2017 at 04:38 AM.
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Old 07-26-2017, 04:26 AM
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Coat the threads of the valve cover bolts with anti-seize.

Let the sealant "Cure" for less than 5 minutes then put the valve cover CAREFULLY back where it goes while looking through the bolt holes to line them up. Make sure the new rubber gasket stays in it's groove. Start one bolt and leave it semi-loose for now while you start the other bolts.

Here is the tightening sequence for the bolts and if you need it the torque is 8.7 foot lbs.

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Reinstall the spark plugs and sparking units in their original places and reconnect the electrical connectors.

For this style engine I would replace the PCV valve and grommet at this time as it's only like $12.00 and if you want to replace it later you would have to remove the manifold again. (DIY TO COME)

Here is a view of the slots in the head when the hot EGR gasses are released into the intake ports from the EGR system.

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For the old style engine clean both surfaces of the EGR plate and look at the gasket to make sure the EGR cutouts match the gasket marks.

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Put the gasket onto the two studs sticking out of the head the correct direction. Then put the EGR plate onto the studs with this side facing the intake manifold.

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Make sure the "O rings" are still in their slots or replace them with new ones and slide the manifold in position.

Coat the threads of the studs and three bolts with anti-seize and install loosely.

While there is no factory sequence for tightening the bolts and nuts for the intake they recommend doing the inner ones first and working outward top to bottom in a crisscross pattern in three steps.

Torque for the three bottom bolts and top two nuts is 16 foot lbs.

Now just reconnect and replace everything you took off the intake manifold and your done.

A couple of closing points:

First if you are doing this to quiet the clicking engine noise down you may have unpleasant surprise coming. Now I remember thinking when I first got it brand new "wow this has pretty loud solid lifter cam noise." But over the years it got quieter because the exhaust valve clearance was closing down.

Once you restore the proper clearances the exhaust valves do have that clicking sound with the engine running and the hood up.

However in the car with the doors closed and the hood down you CAN'T HEAR the engine clicking.

Was all the work worth it? DEFINITELY YES.

While mine weren't too bad at 0.20 mm the problem of the exhaust clearances closing to on some cars to ZERO clearance is VERY DANGEROUS.

With no clearance the exhaust valve never closes and runs way too hot as it has no way to pass the heat into the valve seats and a burnt exhaust is coming SOON so I would rather spend the time now than replace a burnt valve later.

I think that from all the posts I have been reading I would recommend "Running your valves" around the 50,000-60,000 mile mark to be safe.

Will I do it again........... in another 5 years I will be just over 70 years old and I'm hoping I will be around to attempt it again if I can remember where I parked the darn thing.

Last edited by claymore; 07-26-2017 at 04:43 AM.
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